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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.